Let’s start with the basics. The type of tyre wear pattern that’s to be expected is straightforward, and is characterised by the tread’s having been worn away to the extent that the tyres’ tread wear indicators are at or near level with the surface of the tread. So, the tyre has nearly finished its useful service life. Is this the end of the story? Not necessarily. The suspension geometry on some cars can mean that the tyres’ treads don’t necessarily wear completely evenly.

Other car tyre tread wear patterns tell a different tale. What must be borne in mind is that they don’t necessarily tell it quickly – some wear conditions take a while to show that something is awry. For example, what does feathering on both outer edges of the tyre tread suggest? This pattern is the most likely indicator that the tyre has been consistently run at too low a pressure. Conversely, a strip worn around the centre of the tread indicates a tyre having been run at too high a pressure.

What about feathering on one edge of the car tyre tread? Should such wear be on the outer edge of the tyre, it suggests that the car’s steering is misaligned, having too much toe-in. Similarly, feathering on the tread’s inner edge indicates that there is too much toe-out. This kind of wear usually appears on both front tyres, as the steering will generally attempt to run straight and true. The fact that the steering tries to compensate for misalignment by effectively evening out the wear on each side of the car is no compensation in itself. However, it does advise you to have the wheel alignment checked before your new tyres suffer.

It’s worth noting that feathering on one side of a car tyre tread occurring only on one side of the car indicates something other than misaligned wheels. In this instance, one-sided feathering is more suggestive of wear in the car’s suspension joints, its springs and/or its wheel bearings. This pattern can also occur when the wheel’s camber, its position in relation to the vertical plane, is incorrect. Camber change of this kind can be caused by wear in the aforementioned areas; damage to the suspension can cause the same problem.

‘Cupping’ is also a phenomenon that can show you something is amiss on your car. A tread with cupping (also called ‘dipping’ or ‘scalloping’) has patches of wear across its tread’s surface. This can look almost like the tread surface has softened in places, or has been scooped away. Cupping indicates one of two problems or a combination of them. Wheels significantly out of balance can suffer cupping, as can car tyres under the control of worn shock absorbers. Cupping can affect rear tyres but it’s more commonly seen on a car’s front tyres.

As you can see, car tyre tread wear can be the result of maladjustment but wear and damage can give similar results. In the interests of your wallet, if not your life, pay attention to what your car tyres are telling you.

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The 1971 film ‘Vanishing Point’ is a classic car chase wrapped in celluloid. Starring Barry Newman and Cleavon Little (who went on to great things in ‘Blazing Saddles’), Vanishing Point revolves around a fifteen-hour, transcontinental drive from Denver to San Francisco. The star car tyres doing the revolving in the film were fitted to a 1970 Dodge Challenger R/T, the suffix letters referring to ‘road and track’. This 6.2-litre monster, driven by Erich Heuschele, developed the power of 375 gutsy, all-American horses. The car’s F70x14 car tyres put the power onto the tarmac, with the aid of the Challenger’s R/T package. Interestingly, the same model in the same colour popped up in Quentin Tarantino’s 2007 movie ‘Death Proof’. What’s more, the Challenger’s pedigree goes back in time. The black car driven by the baddies in ‘Bullitt’ was a 1968 Dodge Challenger 440 R/T.

More tyre-smoking Detroit iron finished in black starred in 1977′s ‘Smokey and the Bandit’. The motorised matinee idol here wasn’t Burt Reynolds, it was a 1977 Pontiac Trans Am. This car’s history can be traced – it stemmed from a General Motors Design show car created for GM design supremo Bill Mitchell. On this Trans Am, the car tyres were put under pressure in more than the literal sense. The car’s 7.5 litre V8 motor became the last of the muscle car engines. Increasingly stringent emissions regulations in the US finally killed off these big V8 beasts in 1980. The stunt team on ‘Smokey’ pre-empted this, killing off, or at least damaging, all five film cars.

Now for something more unusual, though still in black paint. The next movie star was built using three Model T Ford bodies and a 133-inch hand made chassis. The Munsters Koach was created in 21 days in 1964, at a cost of $18,000; it took 500 hours to make its ornate steel scrollwork alone. Another big V8, by Ford this time, sent the power to the tyres via a four-speed manual gearbox, and the brass radiator and wings were hand formed. The Koach had ten Stromberg carburettors. On an eight cylinder engine? Not really. The visible carburettors were dummies, concealing two functioning four-barrel carbs.

In the Munsters, Grandpa, played by Al Lewis, became more than a little jealous of the Koach. So he acquired ‘Drag-U-La’. This vehicle was notable for its spindly front tyres, mounted on Speedsport English buggy wire wheels. The V8 engine’s 350 horsepower was transmitted to 11 inch-wide Firestone racing slick car tyres, mounted on specially made ten-inch deep Reynolds aluminum Rader drag wheels. Still more characteristic for a ‘vampire’, Drag-U-La’s body shell was a coffin. The original Drag-U-La, one of four built, hangs from the ceiling in Planet Hollywood, Atlantic City, New Jersey.

Who was the talented creator of these last two oddities? The man responsible for putting a lot of tremendously memorable tinseltown tin on tyres. Yes, it was none other than Batmobile creator George Barris.

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Snow and Ice

A mountain climber’s crampons, the tracks on a Caterpillar tractor, the toothed drive belt on a snowmobile…certain things are made to grip on snow and ice. Since (with some exceptions) you can’t fit such things on your car, you have to cope, using the tyres your car usually wears. There is, however an option. When the temperature drops, your usual tyres will lose flexibility. Winter car tyres are designed to retain their flexibility at lower temperatures, so it makes sense to invest in a set. Motorists are discovering that such car tyres really do offer significantly enhanced grip and control, and using them on a set of  (preferably steel) ‘winter wheels’ will preserve your usual alloy wheels from the ravages of salt and grit.

What are the exceptions? Countries with permafrost can be home to car tyres with studs. In the UK, seriously bad conditions can trigger the use of snow chains. A new item occupies the middle ground. Snow socks are car tyre covers made of a tough, woven material. Easier to fit and quieter than chains, they can be useful when drivers are caught out by unexpected snowfalls. Bear in mind that they will wear out in no time on tarmac.

Rain

When it isn’t quite cold enough to snow, rain and sleet present car tyre challenges of their own. Reduced visibility is a foregone conclusion but don’t forget that wet weather compromises grip. Your car tyres will move surface water but a wet surface remains relatively slippery. Remember to leave more room between you and the vehicle in front, to allow for increased braking distances.

Flooding

Lots of rain can lead to flooding. Standing water can be dangerous. When your car tyres hit it, you’ll feel the steering wheel pulling in response. At worst, your tyres may aquaplane. When the tyres ride on the surface of the water, suspiciously light steering signals radically reduced grip. If you feel this, lift off the throttle and slow down until the grip returns.

If you encounter a flood, remember that negotiating it requires care. Keep to the crown of the road, where the water will be shallower, and look out for the white line. This will help you gauge the depth of the water. While you can trust your tyres, remember that your engine, if it sucks in water, will be wrecked. Keep the engine revs up to help stop the exhaust inhaling water. However, if you are in any doubt whatsoever about the depth of the water, use another route.

Fog

In thick fog, you’re bound to suffer loss of visibility. Your car tyres won’t suddenly offer greater grip just because you notice that you’re hurtling towards the back of stationary truck. So drive as fast as you can see, and no faster. Remember to use your windscreen wipers and washers often in fog; your screen can collect water and grime surprisingly quickly, further reducing visibility.

In winter, the watchword is caution. Even on winter car tyres, grip will be compromised to some extent by bad weather. Should the visibility and grip be truly awful, simply put your feet up by the fire and live to drive another day.

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1. The wrong car tyre pressure is costly. Running on overinflated tyres accelerates wear and reduces both grip and ride comfort. Underinflated tyres also wear more quickly, and can worsen fuel economy by as much as ten percent. Check your tyre pressures regularly.

2. Cuts in car tyres are obvious. Lumps or bulges may be less so but they tend to indicate damage inside the car tyre’s carcass. Check for any such damage while correcting tyre pressures. If in any doubt, avoid the risk of a blowout by having a tyre specialist examine the damage.

3. A spare wheel with a flat tyre is worse than useless. Check the spare tyre pressure regularly, unless you have run flat tyres or an onboard tyre pump and repair kit. Remember that space saver spare tyres generally have speed and distance restrictions.

4. If, at car tyre checking time, you find a stone embedded in a tyre tread, you can lever it out before it causes damage. However, if you find a nail in a tyre, leave it alone. The nail will be temporarily keeping the air in – have a tyre specialist take a look. He may be able to repair the tyre.

5. While using the tyre inflator at a garage, or a tyre pump at home, look after the tyre valve dust caps. They keep dirt and grit away from the delicate valves, and are a line of defence against tyre pressure loss. Always put them back carefully.

6. Potholes can damage more than your car tyres. Hit a large one hard enough and you could be facing a bill for the repair or replacement of one or more wheels. Should you be unlucky enough to encounter a big pothole and suspect damage has occurred, stop and examine the affected wheel(s) and tyre(s).

7. Never straddle a speed bump. Instead, let the wheels on one side of your car pass over the bump. This will prevent damage to your car’s tyres, steering and suspension. When negotiating speed bumps and road-width speed pads, slow down or face the cost of repairs.

8. When you’re manoeuvering, curb your enthusiasm so you don’t kerb your car tyres. Kerb impacts can wreck not only tyres, they can scratch, chip and even dent your car’s wheels. Steering misalignment can also result from kerbing.

9. Keep your car in a garage, if you can. Car tyres suffer from prolonged exposure to ultra violet light. This leads to cracking and crazing of the car tyre sidewalls’ structure.

10. When the time to buy replacement tyres rolls around, think about replacing all four. Should this be too costly, always have new tyres fitted in pairs. It’s accepted that the new tyres should be fitted to the rear wheels.

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Let’s say your car weighs one tonne. Nobody weighs half a tonne and the soles of his or her shoes do a pretty good job, expect perhaps on ice or snow. Translated into car tyre terms, the four-sole area has to do much, much more. It’s unlikely, for example, that a road car could generate a cornering force of 1g. Under heavy braking, it’s quite possible for such a force to be generated. Moreover, the forces generated during acceleration and cornering can be very high. Your car tyres and their contact patches do more than a ‘pretty good job’. You don’t usually expect your shoes to keep you from slipping in adverse conditions, such as on gritty or diesel-soaked tarmac in extremes of temperature. Your car tyres do this on a regular basis.

Legally, each of your car tyres must have a minimum of 1.6 millimetres of tread across ¾ of the width of the tyre’s running surface. Not meeting this requirement can get you three penalty points on your licence, as well as a £2,500 fine…per tyre. So, four balding car tyres equals a lost licence and fines of up to £10,000.

In this context, the law could be called an ass. Why? Because just 1.6 millimetres of tread on a car tyre is cutting things fine when it comes to grip. The Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents (RoSpa) put this to the test. They tried some emergency stops in a typical car on some typical surfaces. On smooth concrete, as some motorway stretches have, the car’s barely legal tyres took a distance of 46.6 percent more to stop than an equivalent car with good tyres. Similarly, on hot rolled asphalt, the worn tyres needed 36.8 percent more distance to bring the car to a halt. There’s no need to ask why RoSpa recommends a minimum tread depth of 3 millimetres.

This isn’t the only scenario where worn car tyres will struggle. Tyres are designed to act like water pumps in wet conditions, they can clear surface water from their contact patches. When this fails to happen properly, the tyre will ride on a thin film of water. If this happens, you’d feel the steering lighten, which is an indicator of what’s actually going on. When a car tyre is unable to cut through road water fast enough, it will aquaplane. Aquaplaning equals significantly reduced grip, as you might find out when you attempt to steer or brake.

Whilst it may seem to make sense to get the very most out of the treads on your car tyres, there is such a thing as false economy. Your car tyres have wear indicators, moulded into the treads. Take a look at them and, if the treads no longer stand proud of the tread wear indicators, it’s new tyre time. Running your tyres down to the legal minimum could cost you far more than you think.

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So, how do you fix poor wheel alignment, thus making your car steer and brake better, as well as achieving maximum car tyre life? The good news is that car manufacturers provide a means of adjusting wheel alignment. The not so bad news is that you can’t correct poor alignment yourself.

Cue a visit to your local friendly tyre man. Good tyre bays (and garages) have the equipment to check and adjust wheel alignment. All you have to do is watch (or not, depending on your preference) and pay for the work. Then, drive away secure in the knowledge that your car is shipshape in the wheel alignment department.

What happens in a wheel alignment session? Generally, three things are checked, and adjusted as necessary. The first check establishes that the car tyres are vertical, as viewed from the front or rear. Sometimes, the tyres may not be truly vertical. Some cars’ tyres sit at a slight angle from the perpendicular. This is the camber angle, which can be adjusted to meet the car maker’s specification.

The second check involves another angle, the castor angle. Does your car run on castors? Technically, yes, the castor angle permits the wheels and tyres to return to straight ahead when the car is rolling with no steering input.  As you know, your front wheels turn from side to side in response to your turning the steering wheel. No matter how the wheels and tyres pivot, a line drawn through the centre of the axis on which they pivot won’t be vertical. The line has to lean backwards slightly and if it doesn’t, the steering will feel very odd. Again, this can be cured by adjustment.

The last check is on a figure called the ‘toe’. All car suspension has a small degree of flexibility built into it. So, if the car tyres are parallel at rest, the drag between them and the road as the car moves would cause this flexibility to allow the wheels to splay very slightly. You wouldn’t see this but your tyres would soon tell you all about it, by wearing out the inner edges of their treads. So, the wheels are usually set to ‘toe-in’, so they run parallel. If the tyres toe out, if the toe-in is too much or if the toe angle varies from side to side, the car tyres will wear out prematurely. Curing this is again a matter of adjustment.

Wheel alignment used to be checked with a special gauge that used a mirror and lens system. Nowadays, it’s common for car tyre bays and garages to measure the angles involved using laser equipment. Yes, accurate measurement is necessary. In some instances, worn suspension or steering components mean that a problem can’t be adjusted away. Then, the tyre man in question will tell you what needs repairing or replacing for accurate alignment to be achieved.  It’s also the case, especially on a car with independent rear suspension, for the rear wheels and tyres to be misaligned. Once again, adjustment is usually possible.

Is it possible to stop your car’s wheels becoming misaligned and making the tyres suffer? In a word, yes. Don’t kerb your car tyres. Avoid potholes and traverse speed pads carefully. Above all, always negotiate speed bumps with the tyres on one side of your car. Straddling speed bumps is a major cause of both wheel misalignment and tyre carcass damage. You have been warned!

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So, car tyres are car tyres, right? Not quite; road car and racing car tyres are distant relatives at best. Road car tyres are made to last, typically for a life of 16,000 kilometres or more. Formula One car tyres are made to last 200 kilometres at most, but they are made to be both light and strong. Their internal nylon and polyester structure, with its complicated weave pattern, is designed to handle much greater forces than a road car tyre faces. Let’s put it this way, no road car is likely to generate a tonne of downforce, or 5g of longitudinal load…or 4g lateral loadings.

F1 car tyres’ soft rubber mix is there to offer maximum grip, at the cost of a limited life. The tyres wear very quickly. They also become very hot but this is meant to happen – cold race tyres offer little grip. By way of example, the dry grooved tyres used until recently were designed to run at between 90 and 100 degrees Centigrade. Look carefully at the TV footage and you’ll see the cars’ tyres, pre-race, clad in special coverings, which are electrically heated. The need for heat explains why Formula One cars can be seen weaving from side to side on the way to the starting grid. The drivers are perfectly sober and they aren’t playing – they’re just warming their tyres.

Slick tyres, those with no tread at all, offer maximum grip. However, it was decided in 1998 that slicks be outlawed. Grooved tyres were made de rigeur, to help improve F1 racing as a spectator sport by reducing cornering speeds. This made life difficult for the tyre makers. The rules specified that all tyres had to have four continuous grooves at least 2.5 millimetres deep, spaced 50 millimetres apart. So, tyre manufacturers had to adopt harder rubber compounds, to maintain tyre integrity. By the 2009 season, slick tyres came back. The FIA, Formula One’s governing body, decided to use limits on F1 car aerodynamics as a means of keeping cornering speeds down.

How ‘soft’ or ‘hard’ the rubber compounds in F1 car tyres are, is varied by race, according to each track’s characteristics. For each Grand Prix race weekend, teams choose from two different compounds, and every driver must use both during the race. What makes the difference in the hardness of the different specifications? A change in the proportions of ingredients added to the rubber mix. Of these ingredients, the three main ones are sulphur, carbon and oil. In general, more oil equals a softer tyre compound.

Formula One car tyres are obviously run at the appropriate pressures. However, air pressure isn’t quite the right term. F1 car tyres are inflated with more nitrogen gas than air. This gas and air mixture is less susceptible to pressure loss and minimises the pressure differences that come about through temperature changes.

As will have become clear by now, there are huge differences between road car tyres and Formula One car tyres. They may share basic characteristics but the common denominators between them are certainly low on the scale.

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How is a car tyre made? Production starts with a halobutyl rubber sheet that has special air-retaining additives. This sheet forms the tyre’s inner liner. A three-layer body ply comes next, in which a central layer of reinforcing fabric is sandwiched between two layers of rubber. Cotton used to be the material of choice for the reinforcing fabric but this has been replaced with Nylon, Rayon, polyester or even Kevlar. The body ply’s role is to give the tyre strength and flexibility; two such plies may be used in a tyre.

The acceptable faces of the tyre, the sidewalls, include antiozonants and antioxidants to enhance their life. The sidewalls can resist chemical attack and abrasion, and the tyre’s ratings and size codes are moulded into them.

Of course, the tyre’s sidewalls need to form a seal on the wheel rim. Bands of high tensile steel wire, copper or brass coated for corrosion resistance, form the beads on the inner diameter of the sidewalls. The triangular rubber section that joins the beads to the sidewalls is called the apex. The bead structure is what forms an airtight seal with the wheel rim.

Now for the tread and its underlying structure. The belt package is the part of the tyre that sits inside the tread. It’s made up of two layers of rubber that enclose a layer of steel cords. These cords run radially in the belt package, hence the term ‘radial tyres’.  The belt package is a major player in the tyre’s strength. The tread pattern is visible but the rubber compound used to make it is just as important. The choice of compound is a matter of a selecting a balance, between hardness (wear) and (grip). Think ‘compromise’.

These are the parts of a tyre and they must obviously be assembled and made into a tough, resilient structure. This procedure begins with wrapping the inner liner, body ply(s), sidewalls and beads around a special drum. Then, the belt package and tread are added, and the various elements are spliced together. At this stage the tyre is yet to be cured, and is known as a ‘green’ tyre. In this state, it is inflated and shaped.

Curing comes next, to bond the various parts of the tyre into a coherent whole. A rubber bladder is inflated inside the tyre, forcing it into a mould. Hot water, steam or an inert gas is used to inflate this bladder, and the curing process involves a great deal of heat and pressure…350 degrees Fahrenheit and 350 pounds per square inch to be precise. The curing process takes about 15 minutes.

The final stage is to test the cured tyre on a mock road surface, to seek out localized inflexibility and significant imbalances. Every tyre is given a visual inspection and sometimes, an X-ray inspection too.

So, car tyres are built tough to be tough, which they must be to take on the tough job they do. As they are all that keep your car on the road, it’s reassuring to know how much effort and care go into making them.

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1. Check your car tyre pressures regularly. Running tyres at too low or too high pressure causes wear and speeds the deterioration of your tyres. Moreover, too low a tyre pressure means you will use more fuel; economy can improve by 10 percent when the tyre pressures are correct.

2. Regularly check your car tyres for cuts, bulges or lumps. While the former is obvious, visible damage, the latter can indicate unseen damage within the tyre carcasses. Having a specialist check out any suspect tyres makes far more sense than risking a blowout.

3. Unless you have one of the modern onboard repair kits with a pump, always carry your spare wheel. Remember that there are limits to the speed at which space saver spare tyres can be used, and the distance they can cover.

4. Potholes are car tyre killers, they can damage not only your tyres but even your wheels. You inadvertently strike a pothole and suspect damage has occurred, check the relevant wheel and tyre as soon as you possibly can.

5. If, when checking out tyres, you find a sharp stone embedded in a tread, remove it before it does any damage. However, if you spot a nail, leave it there as pulling it out will cause the tyre to deflate. A car tyre specialist will deal with it for you and may be able to repair the tyre.

6. When checking tyre pressures, remember to replace the valves’ dust caps. These prevent dirt and debris from entering the valves and can help maintain tyre pressure.

7. If possible, keep your car in a garage. Car tyres are tough but exposure to all weathers can accelerate their deterioration. Sunlight damage is common; the ultra violet component in the sun’s rays can cause cracking and crazing.

8. When negotiating speed bumps, never straddle them. Allowing the wheels on one side of the car to pass over the bumps is no faster but it will keep your suspension and steering happier. When you encounter a speed pad running across the entire width of the road, go over it slowly.

9. When the time to replace car tyres comes, it’s best to replace all four. Should this not be affordable, you must replace two of the tyres. Having the new tyres on the back wheels is regarded as the safest.

10. Car tyre specialists don’t just sell and fit tyres. A good specialist will be happy to advise you on the best choice of tyres for your car and for the use to which you put it.

Following these simple tips means you tyres will reward you with good performance and a long service life. Conversely, ignoring your tyres can lead to unfortunate and possibly dangerous circumstances.

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1: Stop in a safe place, with a smooth, firm surface

Never, ever try to change a car tyre and wheel on the hard shoulder, it’s better to drive on slowly and risk ruining the tyre. Switch on the car’s hazard lights and have any passengers stand well back and away from passing traffic. Extract the spare wheel and tools from the boot, using the warning triangle if there is one. Switch on the car’s hazard warning lights.

2: Loosen the wheel nuts/bolts

Put the handbrake on, putting the car in ‘park’ if it’s automatic. Remove the relevant wheel trim or the wheel nut/bolt caps, if present. You’ll need the special ‘key’ nut to remove a locking wheel fastening. Next, loosen the wheel nuts/bolts. These usually undo anticlockwise and you should always be pushing down on the wheel wrench, not pulling upwards.

3: Jack the car up

Put a chock under the wheel diagonally opposite to the one with the flat tyre. Place the car jack under the jacking point nearest the loosened wheel – never try to use the jack anywhere else. Wind or pump up the jack until there’s enough clearance under the wheel to allow for the replacement fully inflated tyre to fit. Don’t allow any part of you get between the car and the ground.

4: Change the wheel

Turn the wheel until one of the fastenings is at the top. Remove the other three (or four) nuts/bolts first. Then unscrew the topmost fastening. Lift the wheel off, keeping your back straight and taking care not to slip. Fit the spare wheel, aligning the fastenings. Replace the topmost nut/bolt first, followed by the remaining ones. Tighten the fastenings until the wheel is fully seated on the hub.

5: Tighten the wheel nuts/bolts

Let the jack down completely and set it aside. You can now tighten the wheel fastenings firmly, working in a diagonal pattern.

You can no go on your way but there is one more step, for which you’ll need to go to a car tyre bay. Car wheel fastenings should be tightened properly and a tyre bay will use a special wrench to do this. While at the tyre bay, it makes sense to have the flat tyre repaired or replaced as necessary.

It’s also worth making some preparations before you experience a puncture; these can make life much easier.  Changing a wheel is a grimy job so carrying some industrial gloves and a mat or piece of carpet in the car can make life much more pleasant. You may also want to familiarise yourself with the wheel changing equipment. Is it accessible? Is it all there? Is the jack there? Does it need lubricating? Better to find out before the event.

Finally, have you got a space saver spare? These usually have limitations concerning speed and distance. Also, space savers can cause dashboard warning lamps to come on, because they confuse the car’s sensors. Your handbook will warn you if this is going to happen.

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